Sustainability Standards for Luxury Beauty

Intro

Welcome to Issue 07, where I delve into the world of luxury beauty. The beauty industry encompasses various categories such as haircare, makeup, skincare, body care, fragrance, and beauty tools. For the sake of simplicity, I will generalise around the skincare category in this article.

The beauty industry has long been criticised for promoting impossible beauty standards. However, in recent years, there has been a shift towards inclusivity in the broader beauty space. This change is less apparent in the luxury beauty segment, and I welcome examples showcasing any progress that you have observed in this area.

In this article, I will explore the issue of waste within the luxury beauty industry. I will examine the various forms of waste generated, the factors contributing to this problem, and potential solutions to mitigate the environmental impact of luxury skincare products. I hope to encourage a more sustainable approach to luxury beauty consumption and production.

Trends

The fast-paced nature of the beauty industry, coupled with the constant emergence of new trends, drives consumers to frequently try new products. However, this consumer experience is often marred by waste. When shopping online, consumers rarely have the opportunity to try products before making a purchase. Even when in-store sampling is available, it often involves single-use plastic sachets or containers, contributing to the growing problem of plastic waste. Another source of waste in the beauty industry is the accumulation of half-used products in people's bathrooms, a result of the inability to test products thoroughly before committing to a full-size purchase.

While not exclusively tied to luxury beauty, SEPHORA recently released a list of 2024 beauty trends. To better visualise the popularity of these trends, I have included a chart that represents the Google search range for each trend, indicating the number of people searching for these solutions. Interestingly, only half of the listed trends have a high volume of searches

There is a better way to visualise this... The numbers represent the Google search range of the number of people searching for these solutions. Only half of the searches have a high volume of searches (Acne and Blemishes were one search trend in the list).

The lengthy process of bringing a new beauty product to market often results in the development of solutions that may not align with current consumer demands. Despite the low search volume for certain beauty trends, products addressing these concerns already exist. Consequently, beauty brands are compelled to market these products to consumers as the next "must-have" item, promising to solve all their problems, even if consumers were not actively seeking such solutions.

This cycle perpetuates the issue of waste in the beauty industry. Consumers, enticed by the prospect of trying something new, often abandon their current products in favor of the latest offerings. A survey conducted by The Body Shop revealed that 26% of Brits discard their skincare products when they discover a new product that excites them more. This behavior not only contributes to the accumulation of partially used products but also fuels the demand for new products, leading to increased production and, ultimately, more waste.

To address this issue, it is crucial for both consumers and the beauty industry to reevaluate their approach to product development and consumption. By focusing on creating products that address genuine consumer needs and promoting a more mindful approach to beauty consumption, we can work towards reducing waste and fostering a more sustainable beauty industry.

Product Formulations

The second major issue in the beauty industry arises when products fail to deliver on their promises. The Body Shop survey revealed that 45% of respondents abandoned skincare products because they either stopped working for their skin or were not suitable for their skin type in the first place.

The resources invested in developing and marketing products that ultimately prove ineffective constitute a significant waste. It raises the question of whether beauty brands proactively collect data on product efficacy and customer satisfaction. Surprisingly, many brands exclude this crucial aspect when discussing their sustainability efforts. However, I believe that incorporating this data is essential for driving the development of truly sustainable products.

As the wellness and beauty industries converged, consumers became increasingly aware of the ingredients in the products they applied to their skin. This trend gave rise to the popularity of clean beauty products, often accompanied by various organic claims. According to Mintel , "European consumers are equally drawn to a natural claim for facial care – from a low of 62% in France to a high of 71% in Italy."

In the luxury beauty space, brands like Guerlain have embraced nature-inspired formulations. For example, their Terracotta powder was reinvented with a record 96% of ingredients of natural origin. Similarly, their Aqua Allegoria collection boasted a natural content of over 90%, and the fifth generation of their Orchidée Impériale cream contained 96% ingredients of natural origin.

While the shift towards natural and organic ingredients is commendable, it is crucial to ensure that these products deliver on their promises and effectively address consumer needs. By prioritising product efficacy alongside sustainability, luxury beauty brands can reduce waste, build consumer trust, and contribute to a more sustainable industry as a whole.

Packaging

Packaging plays a significant role in the allure of luxury beauty products, influencing brand perception and consumers' willingness to spend. I have contemplated whether packaging-free beauty could still be considered luxurious. A few years ago, solid beauty products gained momentum, with brands like SBTRCT skincare skincare and SOAPBOTTLE showcasing the potential of plastic-free beauty when design is thoughtfully considered. While several luxury brands offer solid soaps, they are often embossed soaps whose price tag is primarily determined by the brand rather than being an attractive purchase in and of themselves.

According to The Guardian , "Cosmetics packaging is often made of hard-to-recycle plastics, and more than 90% of cosmetics packaging goes to landfill." This alarming statistic highlights the urgent need for more sustainable packaging solutions in the beauty industry.

Mintel's research in 2023 revealed that "41% of fragrance launches included ethical and environmental claims, up from 18% in 2019." However, the report also noted that consumers do not want sustainability to compromise the appearance of a potential luxury product. This "quiet aspect" of the sustainability trend suggests that luxury beauty brands must strike a balance between eco-friendly packaging and maintaining the premium look and feel that consumers expect.

While I don't anticipate luxury beauty brands completely shedding layers of packaging, the introduction of refillable options could help reduce waste without compromising the luxury experience. By offering high-quality, reusable containers that can be refilled with the same product, brands can maintain their premium image while taking steps towards a more sustainable future.

As consumers become increasingly aware of the environmental impact of their purchases, luxury beauty brands must adapt and innovate to meet the growing demand for sustainable products and packaging. By embracing eco-friendly materials, minimalist design, and refillable options, the luxury beauty industry can contribute to a more sustainable future while preserving the allure and prestige associated with their products.

Refill and Take back

I believe that the beauty industry has a responsibility not only to create sustainable packaging but also to take back and properly dispose of or recycle the packaging they produce. I've previously written about Selfridges and their ReSelfridges initiative, where refills accounted for 20% of their circularity revenue. However, the refill process often involves significant friction for the consumer, and many brands still use plastic in their refill solutions. Despite these challenges, I firmly believe that any new brand entering the beauty market should have sustainability considerations built into their design from the outset.

A search on the Selfridges website reveals several luxury brands that offer refill options, including Hermès, Parfums Christian Dior, Prada Group, and LA MER. These brands demonstrate that it is possible to incorporate sustainable practices while maintaining a luxury image.

L'Oréal Luxe, for example, reported that they used "40% less materials with refillables on Prada Paradoxe" and collected 2.78 million empty Kiehl's Since 1851 items in 2023. These initiatives showcase the potential for luxury beauty brands to reduce waste and encourage consumer participation in sustainability efforts.

As the beauty industry continues to evolve, it is crucial for brands to prioritise sustainability at every stage of product development and consumption. By designing products with refills and take-back programs in mind, luxury beauty brands can lead the way in reducing waste and promoting a circular economy. Additionally, by making the refill process more convenient and accessible for consumers, brands can encourage widespread adoption of sustainable practices.

The success of initiatives like ReSelfridges and the efforts of luxury brands such as Hermès , Parfums Christian Dior , Prada Group , and LA MER demonstrate that sustainability and luxury can coexist. As more brands embrace this approach, the beauty industry can make significant strides towards a more sustainable future while continuing to offer the high-quality, premium products that consumers desire.

Natural Ingredients

While writing this article, I took a closer look at Guerlain's commitments, which can be found on their website: https://www.guerlain.com/uk/en-uk/c/our-commitments.html. Guerlain's initiatives showcase the steps that luxury beauty brands can take to promote sustainability and transparency in their supply chains.

I would love to hear from you about any changes you plan to make in your personal beauty routine or in your organisation's sustainability strategies. Do you find it practical to consider supporting brands that prioritise transparency, sustainable sourcing, and eco-friendly packaging?

This post was first published on LinkedIn.